Hybrid Racing Accessory Drive

I'm building this car for fun, meaning it's not going to be a daily driver.  It is going to be bundled in blankets in my garage as soon as it drops below 60 so there's no chance it sees snow.  As such, I don't need defrost, and if it gets uncomfortably hot, I'll just open the window more or sweat it out.  So AC is not needed.  And like a year and a half ago I defeated the power steering.  So that ship's already sailed.

All this to say, if you plan on getting rid of the PS and AC, you may want to buy an off-the-shelf tensioner.  I've seen them at Hybrid Racing (www.hybrid-racing.com) and k-tuned (www.k-tuned.com).  Conceptually, they're a little different.  The HR tensioner uses an OEM-looking autotensioner, and the k-tuned uses an adjustable screw to set the tension.  Otherwise, they both relocate the alternator (to the same place) to replace the AC compressor in the belt drive system.

Cost aside, I liked the autotensioner of Hybrid Racing, so I went that route.

Going through the pictures:

Here is the factory accessory drive.  The AC compressor is already removed.  Notice that, without relocating the alternator, the accessory drive just won't work.

Take a look at these bolt points.

The circled ones are where the AC compressor mounted.  The point circled in green is where your alternator is going to bolt.

Pic from the back side, for reference.  Remove the coupler and B-terminal cable before taking the alternator off.

Take the Alternator off

Again, these are the bolt points you're going to use:
The top point is for the alternator top bolt, and the lower points are for the alternator bracket provided in the Hybrid Racing kit.

Skipping a couple steps, here's the completed belt drive:
Notice that the factory belt drive is designed for a 7PK belt (on 7-rib pulleys).  The HR kit comes with a 6PK belt.  Due to the misalignment achieved with the new alternator location, the belt is offset one tooth IN on the crank pulley and one tooth OUT on the alternator.

For my application, I think this will be OK.

General comment: Hybrid Racing specifies 35 ft-lbf on the M8x1.25 bolts and 70 ft-lbf on the M10x1.25 bolts.  These torque values are so wildly above what you should use.  My advice is to completely ignore HR's recommended torque values and follow your HELM (OEM Honda) Service Manual.  You can achieve 35 on the M8s, but when trying to hit 70 on the M10s, I thought the block was going to strip before I achieved the torque value.

M8x1.25 should be torqued to 17 ft-lbf into aluminum.
M10x1.25 should be torqued to 33 ft-lbf into aluminum.

Second general comment: I don't know what aftermarket companies' fascinations with socket-head screws are.  I am going to go back and replace these bolts with OEM Honda fasteners wherever they fit.  Socket heads require a less-common tool (basically anything is less common than an 10, 12, or 14 socket) and I feel they are more prone to stripping during high-torque installation or removal than a flange bolt.  In the second-to-last picture, look at the contact area between the bolt head and the alternator.  It's not enough.

/end rant

-j peezy