I'm still technically a few weeks behind in my updates because my car was driving around on June 8th. But let's pretend that it's Sunday, June 5th, and I have some parts that still need to go on. Here they are:
take a second to bask in the shininess of brand new parts.
You'll want to install the axles. I tried to make this a one-man job (it basically has been so far) and juggling the axles was something I wanted to do delicately. So I made Axle Hangers using a strap from some lunch box and a bunch of zip ties.
Here's how they work: Set the axle (near the outer joint) in the hanger. Guide the inner end of the axle into the transmission, being VERY CAREFUL not to damage the axle seals on the gearcase. Basically the hanger supports the weight of the axle while allowing you to move it around and align it carefully into the gearbox. If you eff this up, you'll need to replace the seals. So don't botch it.
Now that the axles are in start putting other parts on:
Bolt up some of the other new parts:
PLEASE ENJOY some nice suspension pictures:
2011-06-19
Strut Towers and tower bars
If you have a Civic, you must install strut tower bars, and this is a well-known fact. Unless you don't have the internet, you basically understand how a strut tower bar works and how it mounts to the frame. Every aftermarket bar I've seen (with the exception of the Neuspeed unit with two small contact pads) has a large, flat mount surface that is secured to the shock top-hat studs. This is actually a very good way to brace the frame, since the loads are transferred directly from the shock to the bar without having a separate mount point on the sheetmetal, as per some OEM tower bars (Integra, EG civic, etc).
However, your Civic, as mine did, may have a problem with flat area on the shock towers. See the below pics:
You need to remove the body sealer circled in red. I took a screwdriver and GENTLY pried the bulk of the sealer off the strut tower. After that, you'll need a Dremel with a couple different brushes. At first, use the nylon-bristle brush to remove any remaining sealer. After that, take a stainless-steel brush to remove as much surface rust as you can. After those steps, your tower will look like this:
When you're satisfied with the level of crap-removal, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol. This not only removes particulate contamination, but also removes grease and oils and stuff.
Post-alcohol, it looks like this
After that, start masking stuff off. Here's some pics:
You can see what's basically going on so I won't give the play-by-play.
After that, I shot three coats of primer and three of Duplicolor metallic black that, in theory, matches Honda black. Try to avoid overspray.
Towers are done:
...and the final result. My color matching skills are terrible at best. Honestly, the color difference is very noticeable with flash photography, and not so much otherwise.
Soon I will have a tower bar to detract from any color discrepancy, and it will have a nice mating surface on the shock tower.
However, your Civic, as mine did, may have a problem with flat area on the shock towers. See the below pics:
You need to remove the body sealer circled in red. I took a screwdriver and GENTLY pried the bulk of the sealer off the strut tower. After that, you'll need a Dremel with a couple different brushes. At first, use the nylon-bristle brush to remove any remaining sealer. After that, take a stainless-steel brush to remove as much surface rust as you can. After those steps, your tower will look like this:
When you're satisfied with the level of crap-removal, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol. This not only removes particulate contamination, but also removes grease and oils and stuff.
Post-alcohol, it looks like this
After that, start masking stuff off. Here's some pics:
You can see what's basically going on so I won't give the play-by-play.
After that, I shot three coats of primer and three of Duplicolor metallic black that, in theory, matches Honda black. Try to avoid overspray.
Towers are done:
...and the final result. My color matching skills are terrible at best. Honestly, the color difference is very noticeable with flash photography, and not so much otherwise.
Soon I will have a tower bar to detract from any color discrepancy, and it will have a nice mating surface on the shock tower.
2011-06-05
Manuel steering
First of all, I know manual is spelled "manual". I just love when I'm gettin my craigslist on, and people are like "yo buy my car, it's got a manuel transmission". But I digress.
I previously mentioned that I didn't think that back-converting an Integra power-steering rack to manual steering was a great idea, so my homie Taku and I hit up the Pick and Pull for some new-to-me parts. There were lots of EG civics surprisingly, and one had the exact thing I wanted: an in-tact steering rack and subframe.
It was looking rough, but I took a bit of PB blaster and some soap and water to it and got it looking pretty.
You'll notice I snatched the DC Integra cross-brace (red arrows, second pic above) and bolted it to the EG subframe. It's a direct bolt-on since the weld-nuts are already there. Some Honda engineer 20 years ago knew that you'd want to do this swap. Don't torque this down until the subframe is securely fixed to the body.
If you do this swap, you'll also need a rear engine mount bracket from a car fitting this description: 1992-1995 Civic, D-series engine, manual transmission. This required a second run to Pick and Pull, and thanks again to Taku for helping me yet again.
You'll see the bracket labeled EG. When building a car, first go to Joanne Fabrics. This is not a joke. Buy bright-colored Sharpie paint markers. When you buy parts or remove parts, label them. When you torque bolts down, mark it. You'll see your car came from the factory with many such marks (look at the subframe bolts). It's a good idea.
The last step is the steering universal joint. This is the most difficult part, oddly enough. Don't fit the subframe to the body with the universal joint on the rack. Take it off and fit it later. Learn from my mistakes. The universal only fits on the steering column at one angle (clock position), but can be fit 360-deg around the steering gear. Live and learn.
I'm still amazed at how all this stuff just bolts right up. These old Civics and Integras are like legos for big kids. Big, rusty Legos.
ZZZZzzzzz
-jkwan
I previously mentioned that I didn't think that back-converting an Integra power-steering rack to manual steering was a great idea, so my homie Taku and I hit up the Pick and Pull for some new-to-me parts. There were lots of EG civics surprisingly, and one had the exact thing I wanted: an in-tact steering rack and subframe.
It was looking rough, but I took a bit of PB blaster and some soap and water to it and got it looking pretty.
You'll notice I snatched the DC Integra cross-brace (red arrows, second pic above) and bolted it to the EG subframe. It's a direct bolt-on since the weld-nuts are already there. Some Honda engineer 20 years ago knew that you'd want to do this swap. Don't torque this down until the subframe is securely fixed to the body.
If you do this swap, you'll also need a rear engine mount bracket from a car fitting this description: 1992-1995 Civic, D-series engine, manual transmission. This required a second run to Pick and Pull, and thanks again to Taku for helping me yet again.
You'll see the bracket labeled EG. When building a car, first go to Joanne Fabrics. This is not a joke. Buy bright-colored Sharpie paint markers. When you buy parts or remove parts, label them. When you torque bolts down, mark it. You'll see your car came from the factory with many such marks (look at the subframe bolts). It's a good idea.
The last step is the steering universal joint. This is the most difficult part, oddly enough. Don't fit the subframe to the body with the universal joint on the rack. Take it off and fit it later. Learn from my mistakes. The universal only fits on the steering column at one angle (clock position), but can be fit 360-deg around the steering gear. Live and learn.
I'm still amazed at how all this stuff just bolts right up. These old Civics and Integras are like legos for big kids. Big, rusty Legos.
ZZZZzzzzz
-jkwan
New Cluster
Little tidbit I got in the mail from HMotorsOnline.
Everyone likes Si and JDM CTR meters, but taking a look at the JDM EK4 Si-R meter, I have no idea why. Amber on black color scheme, 9k+ RPM revcounter... this thing is tight.
Incredibly easy to install also.
I'll get a night photo when the battery's in the car.
Everyone likes Si and JDM CTR meters, but taking a look at the JDM EK4 Si-R meter, I have no idea why. Amber on black color scheme, 9k+ RPM revcounter... this thing is tight.
Incredibly easy to install also.
I'll get a night photo when the battery's in the car.
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